Following days we were basically only chilling out, went to theater to see water puppetry (ancient form of Asian theater) and continued to explore Hanoi. Looking for a place to have dinner somewhere in the old town I’ve noticed a paper lantern in one of those narrow tunnels between houses. I though it must be sign there’s something there, cause normally the corridors are pitch black. So, we went there.
Turned out it was a local (and by local I mean local) restaurant in one of the apartments. In the corridor we had to take shoes off, in the living room people were sitting and having dinner on the floor. There were also two tables on the balcony (with regular chairs). The staff didn’t speak a single word English (nor French). We ordered beer and pho. And got delicious noodles (no soup though, I guess ‘pho’ has not necessarily come with soup) and good beer. And I’ve spotted three cute geckos on the ceiling. I like geckos. They’re always a good sign. They take care of insects. And I was told once in Sri Lanka they bring luck and if while you’re speaking a gecko barks (because they do make a noise that reminds of barking) it means you’re telling the truth. The geckos as kind of polygraph are the sweetest superstition I’ve ever heard and hence, I’m willing to believe it ;)
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We drove to the countryside and visited the Parfume Pagoda, which is a temple set in a cave surrounded by trees (the wood has kind of spicy scent - hence, the name ‘parfume pagoda’). Our guide spoke English, so I could chat with him and find out for instance that in Vietnam you’re only allowed to have two children, for the third child there’s a fine of several hundred US dollars – which is an astronomical sum over there.
I tried to ask what happens if a couple gets pregnant with the third child doesn’t have the money though. He didn’t answer. I can only imagine what happens then. And my country struggles with a dangerously low birthrate (thus, decline in population). I would call it ironic if it wasn’t that tragic...
***
And now time for the absolute highlight of my stay in Vietnam. But first of all, a small remark – I know that cobras are among endangered species. At that place where I had my cobra the snakes were bred for culinary purposes, so, I figured it doesn’t really count as eating an endangered species. I still do have some ethical doubts about it, but for me it was like one in a lifetime opportunity, so I just took it.
There’s a place called ‘snake village’ near Hanoi with variety of snake restaurants. Snakes are being bred there and so you can choose the snake you want and then they prepare it for you (like choosing a lobster or fish in other places). They also have cobras. Traditionally they cut the cobra, take some blood (which will be then used to prepare the so called ‘snake wine’) and cut the heart out. The heart is eaten still beating. From the rest of the snake they prepare a 10-courses meal.
And so, I’ve chosen my cobra, they ‘opened’ it and I got the heart along with a glass with snake wine (which is blood mixed with local vodka – quite a good chaser I must say ;)
It was disgusting. I eat raw meat, have no problems with that, even like it actually (like tartar steak etc.) This was way different though.
I could feel the heart pulsing on my tongue. No joke. Basically, I thought I throw up or/ and cry ;)
The blood-drink was thick, also really strong. I figured it was important to drink it cause alcohol kills all the bacteria, so I had a shot of that ‘bloody mary’ ;) and then also some alcohol with a yellowish substance they squeezed out of one of the cobra organs (gall bladder maybe? Anyhow, it was a rather thick green-yellowish fluid). My travel friend was SO laughing at me. I must have looked really like I was about to cry. It was disgust pure and beyond imagination. Then, I could try different dishes made out of cobra. Among them: spring rolls (not bad), fried skin (awful!), kind of stew made out of entrails (awful!), fried ground bones (quite tasty), soup (so thick, almost jelly – I don’t really recommend it). Btw, in Vietnam cobra heart is believed to cure pretty much everything and snake wine to improve health.
Well, it was an experience, rather unique and interesting. And that is why I travel :) I must say as I was just about to eat the heart I had a real adrenaline rush (on a smaller scale but kind of comparable to skydiving), I was really excited. And I tell you one thing - I absolutely love this feeling!
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My Vietnam travel was exceptional. Fascinating country, amazing landscapes, scenic seascapes, the cobra and – last but not least – a new friend.
But well, all good things...
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