Lisbon is always a good idea - I thought and bought the ticket.
Last time I’ve been here exactly three years ago. Lisbon was a real coup de foudre. I fell in love with the city the moment I entered the streets of Bairro and Alfama. I loved the buildings, even if they looked like they were about to fall apart… The blue, white and deep green of azulejos, reflecting the sunlight. The city seems to be filled with light, the sun is so intense here. The sweetness of ginja d’obidos and pasteis. The fresh taste of vinho verde. I love the hills the city is located on. Even if I sometimes get tired walking up, the views are simply scenic.
Well, few months after I came back, I’ve started to learn Portuguese and ever since I’ve been captivated not only by Lisbon, but also by the language. It is, in my opinion, one of the most beautiful languages of the world (I mean the European Portuguese version, the Brazilian one sounds too ‘soft’ - for me at least).
I love the sound of Portuguese. Moreover, my favorite poem is written in this language. Cantico Negro by Jose Regio. The most amazing piece of poetry I’ve ever read (and I did study literature, so I’ve read a few poems in my life), it’s like a statement of independence for all the free spirits. A tribute to freedom.
Năo sei por onde vou,
Năo sei para onde vou
Sei que năo vou por aí!
[more or less – I don’t know where I am going nor what is my destination, but I know one thing – I am not going there. With ‘there’ being the operative word - where everyone else is going.]
Even if you don't understand the words, just listen to the sound of this magnificent interpretation of the poem:
But anyways, I was once again in Lisbon. This time I came here to write. I needed isolation from... home basically, in order to finally finish a book I was working on. And so, I thought I will just seat in cafes in a city that brings up some good memories and write for a few days...
***
I literally run into him in the subway on my first day in Lisbon. Though three years have passed it seemed like he wasn’t getting older at all. He didn't change - personable as always, open-minded and well-read. A great companion. We went for a beer (correction: for a few beers ;) to a place with a river view. Sitting there, on the pavement, smoking cigarettes, drinking Sagres cerveja (which btw is OK, not what I would call a really good beer though) and talking I realized that we have been here before - at the exactly same spot, exactly three years ago. And well, that was the moment when I started to experience the major déjà vu of my life (must have been a glitch in the matrix ;)
As we were walking with some of his friends from one bar to the other in the crowded Bairro district I was remembering more and more. Flashbacks. I’ve already been there, done that, had those conversations (déjà vu, déjà bu, déjà parlé, déjà… etc.). Yet another time travel, I thought.
Obviously, I’ve also got a chance to meet some new people. Among them a Portuguese writer – a truly beautiful girl about my age who has already published several novels and won an important literature prize. I had a brief though interesting conversation with her. Told her about my attempts to write a travel book and also that I write about travels - above all - through the perspective of people I meet on my way. She listened patiently and then in the end she said - Well I give you 5 years. By that time you will have several books published. She said it with a smile and such a confidence that I... believed in it.
Maybe that was exactly what I needed. Some faith in myself. Even if coming from a stranger.
That’s one of the reasons why I love Lisbon. I meet extraordinary people here. People who inspire me (well, I know, it sounds cheesy, that’s how it is though).
***
I was sitting somewhere in Alfama, near to the Castle, watching the yellow trams which in fact seem to be coming from a different time, having a smoke, making notes about the travel. A guy was selling small jewelry - necklaces, hand-made out of colorful stones.
He asked me if I wanted to buy something. - No. Thank you though.
- Where are you from? There we go - I thought. He won’t leave me alone now. But to my great surprise he was just being nice, it wasn’t a ‘marketing strategy’ ;) We started to talk. Turned out he was from Senegal and had some friends who lived in Warsaw and played there in an African drum band. He was a musician himself. Trying to make some money selling those shiny things. In the end he offered me one of the necklaces.
- Please. Take it. It’s a gift.
- No, I can’t accept it.
- Oh, yes you can. – he insisted smiling. You’re a good person. It will bring you luck, you’ll see. It’s for you. And he put the necklace around my neck.
And so, for the first time in my life I got something, just like that, from a total stranger. Do you still wonder why am I so thrilled about Lisbon? There is a lot of good, unexpected things that happen here.
***
Well, Lisbon said goodbye with a heavy rainfall. I said goodbye with a smile. Somehow I know I’ll be back. It may take another three years; eventually, I will be back though. What do I love about Lisbon? Well, to begin with... everything.
***
Needless to mention, I haven’t managed to finish my book.
Last time I’ve been here exactly three years ago. Lisbon was a real coup de foudre. I fell in love with the city the moment I entered the streets of Bairro and Alfama. I loved the buildings, even if they looked like they were about to fall apart… The blue, white and deep green of azulejos, reflecting the sunlight. The city seems to be filled with light, the sun is so intense here. The sweetness of ginja d’obidos and pasteis. The fresh taste of vinho verde. I love the hills the city is located on. Even if I sometimes get tired walking up, the views are simply scenic.
Well, few months after I came back, I’ve started to learn Portuguese and ever since I’ve been captivated not only by Lisbon, but also by the language. It is, in my opinion, one of the most beautiful languages of the world (I mean the European Portuguese version, the Brazilian one sounds too ‘soft’ - for me at least).
I love the sound of Portuguese. Moreover, my favorite poem is written in this language. Cantico Negro by Jose Regio. The most amazing piece of poetry I’ve ever read (and I did study literature, so I’ve read a few poems in my life), it’s like a statement of independence for all the free spirits. A tribute to freedom.
Năo sei por onde vou,
Năo sei para onde vou
Sei que năo vou por aí!
[more or less – I don’t know where I am going nor what is my destination, but I know one thing – I am not going there. With ‘there’ being the operative word - where everyone else is going.]
Even if you don't understand the words, just listen to the sound of this magnificent interpretation of the poem:
But anyways, I was once again in Lisbon. This time I came here to write. I needed isolation from... home basically, in order to finally finish a book I was working on. And so, I thought I will just seat in cafes in a city that brings up some good memories and write for a few days...
***
I literally run into him in the subway on my first day in Lisbon. Though three years have passed it seemed like he wasn’t getting older at all. He didn't change - personable as always, open-minded and well-read. A great companion. We went for a beer (correction: for a few beers ;) to a place with a river view. Sitting there, on the pavement, smoking cigarettes, drinking Sagres cerveja (which btw is OK, not what I would call a really good beer though) and talking I realized that we have been here before - at the exactly same spot, exactly three years ago. And well, that was the moment when I started to experience the major déjà vu of my life (must have been a glitch in the matrix ;)
As we were walking with some of his friends from one bar to the other in the crowded Bairro district I was remembering more and more. Flashbacks. I’ve already been there, done that, had those conversations (déjà vu, déjà bu, déjà parlé, déjà… etc.). Yet another time travel, I thought.
Maybe that was exactly what I needed. Some faith in myself. Even if coming from a stranger.
That’s one of the reasons why I love Lisbon. I meet extraordinary people here. People who inspire me (well, I know, it sounds cheesy, that’s how it is though).
***
He asked me if I wanted to buy something. - No. Thank you though.
- Where are you from? There we go - I thought. He won’t leave me alone now. But to my great surprise he was just being nice, it wasn’t a ‘marketing strategy’ ;) We started to talk. Turned out he was from Senegal and had some friends who lived in Warsaw and played there in an African drum band. He was a musician himself. Trying to make some money selling those shiny things. In the end he offered me one of the necklaces.
- Please. Take it. It’s a gift.
- No, I can’t accept it.
- Oh, yes you can. – he insisted smiling. You’re a good person. It will bring you luck, you’ll see. It’s for you. And he put the necklace around my neck.
And so, for the first time in my life I got something, just like that, from a total stranger. Do you still wonder why am I so thrilled about Lisbon? There is a lot of good, unexpected things that happen here.
***
Well, Lisbon said goodbye with a heavy rainfall. I said goodbye with a smile. Somehow I know I’ll be back. It may take another three years; eventually, I will be back though. What do I love about Lisbon? Well, to begin with... everything.
***
Needless to mention, I haven’t managed to finish my book.
No comments:
Post a Comment