Now let’s get back to my short but most interesting visit to Bako National Park. From Kuching I went there early in the morning on a bus, then boat. For the boat (which could take up to 5 ppl) I teamed up with two nice couples – one from Germany (30somethings), other from Belgium (40somethings). We asked the boatman to pick us up at 4.15 pm, so we can catch the last bus to Kuching (that was leaving at 5 pm).
I arrived in Bako and was blown away – by the blue of the sea, by the lush green hills. I decided to go for one of the longer hikes. It was my first hike in a tropical jungle. It was an amazing sensation, I didn’t expect the humidity in the woods and the dry heat in the plateau. It’s a great hike, partly quite steep. It’s all true what they wrote on Lonely Planet - I was really sweating to the point that I’ve noticed what eyebrows are for… (btw, in Miri I run into… the author of the LP Borneo guide on his research trip to update the book! So, I could personally tell him that the guidebook was great :)
Anyways, hiking in the jungle is like going up the stairs in a sauna. The forest is magnificent though. It’s a dense jungle with so many different kind of plants, huge trees, animals which you can hear along the way - not really see though as they’re rather scared of humans. Well, can you blame them? Anyhow, I’ve managed to see in the trees a proboscis monkey. At least I think it was one of this kind (I will stick to this version even if I have some doubts about it ;) Funny creatures only to be found in Borneo. One of the symbols of the island (along with the orangutan and the hornbill which, btw, I had an opportunity to spot in Mulu). The proboscis monkeys have those funny noses – really big, totally not proportional to their ‘faces’. 
The Bako park is really popular among the tourists (LP rates it as the top must-see in Borneo). However, most of them take the shorter hikes. Hence, I was on the trail I chose by myself. I mean, probably there were other people, but I haven’t met anyone. On the way back I’ve found a rocky beach where I also was alone. Sitting there, really tired, watching the islands and the sea, once again on my travels I experienced the perfect moment. The beauty of the land- and seascape was overwhelming. I looked for seashells, went for a swim, took some pictures, made some notes and was just lying there in the sun on a huge rock. I enjoy those moments of peaceful solitude when I’m surrounded by the most gorgeous nature on this planet. I was truly, perfectly happy. I had a thought that even if it was only for this view plus the trail I’ve just hiked, it would be really worth it to come to Borneo. Obviously, at time I didn’t know that the trip will be one to remember for many, many more reasons.
Remember that for Borneo I’ve chosen as soundtrack mostly some old hard rock hits? Well, they didn’t suit a place like that. The magnificent of the Bako reserve made me think of Louis Armstrong's What a Wonderful World.
Around 3.30 I came back to the park HQ. The German couple was already there. We had a small talk watching a monkey which stole someone’s coke (with straw) and climbed quickly to the roof where it was sitting, drinking the coke and curiously looking down at people. People below were curiously looking up.
The Belgium couple arrived as well. Few minutes past 4pm we went to the beach and waited for our boat. The boats were coming and going. Our wasn’t there though. In the meantime the so far clear blue sky over the Baku peninsula turned grey. At first a few big drops were falling, but with every minute the rain got stronger and stronger. Then thunders and lightnings began.
We were still standing at the beach waiting for the boat. We were the only people there. All the other tourists had been already picked up by their boats. It felt like we were stranded there. For half an hour only. Luckily, the boatman finally found his way.
But when we got into the boat, there was a real tropical thunderstorm. With strong wind, thunders. At least at one part of the sky, because when I looked to the side I’ve noticed… clear blue sky and sun, I looked to the other side - the sky was ‘bluish’ with… a rainbow. So, I was there on the sea with thunderstorm above me, sun on my right and a beautiful rainbow on the left.
But again – we went exactly through the storm. The poncho didn’t help much. With the strong wind my clothes were completely wet anyhow. It lasted for maybe 15 minutes, when we got back to the bus station the sun was shining bright again. Do you know the song – everywhere I go it rains on me? In Borneo I remembered the song quite a few times actually. But again, what do you expect when going to the *rain*forest ;)
***
My last days in Borneo I spent going on a local bus through Brunei to the northern province of Sabah. I stayed for two days in Kota Kinabalu which is a very touristy town, not really my cup of tea. But still, it was nice after the whole two weeks of hostels, dorms, hikes, jungle to get for a while back to civilization (*hot* shower – for the first time in two weeks!). I seized the opportunity to explore the nearby islands – spent a day on a hop on hop off tour by boat - hiking, swimming, enjoying the sun on the tiny islands around Kota Kinabalu. Of course it wasn’t like a booked tour, I actually bought a ticket for one of the island, but then started to talk with the Filipino boatman and as he was really nice and didn’t overcharge me I went with him also to other islands. The seascape reminded me a bit of Vietnam and little islets of Ha Long Bay (wasn’t that spectacular though). Anyhow, it was my well deserved ‘holiday pure’ ;) just chilling out for a day. From KK I flew to Kuala Lumpur and was getting ready to slowly but surely head home.
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